Monday, April 18, 2011

Converting a US -Spec Vehicle to Canadian Spec

Recently I imported a BMW from the US to Canada (Toronto).  It was a 2001 BMW E46 330i.
I did my research and found the easiest way to import the vehicle and also to convert it to Canadian standards.  I called the BMW dealer in Toronto and they told me the required changes include only reprogramming of the vehicle computer, and they would charge $650.
The changes include:
  1. Daytime Running Lights activiation:  (DRL)
  2. Odometer to read in km, instead of miles.
I called around and found that independant repair shops will make the changes for an hourly rate, and thye can generally do it for about 1hr, though on some cars, the changes took longer.  This means the price they would charge would be about $120, compared to $650 at the dealer.  I find it amazing how the dealers think they can charge their customers this way.
Despite this low cost, I purchased a scanner (BMW scanner 1.4) and set it all up at home.  I was able to make all the changes myself, and it was very easy, but required a laptop and a little computer knowledge.  I would be willing to make these changes for others who would rather have me do it than purchase their own equipment.  The vehicles I can do are:
  • BMW  E38  1994 - 2001 7-series
  • BMW  E39  1997 - 2003  5-Series
  • BMW E46   1998 - 2006   3- Series
  • BMW E53  1999 - 2006    X-5
  • BMW E83   2004-2005     X-3
  • BMW E85   2003-2005     Z-4
Please email me at lyndonthan@yahoo.com if you would like to discuss this with me.  I will be performing the work in Toronto, ideally near Sheppard and Bathurst in North York.  I am a licensed engineer, so I feel I am competent in offering this service, and I am offering it at the low price of $90 as of April 2011 (prices may change in subsequent years).

Best Wishes on your BMW

Sunday, March 27, 2011

1995 W124 E320 Engine Wiring Harness

Recently the engine on this car began to run very rough.  It was mainly at low rpm's.  At first I thought the head gasket was blown, but looking further into the situation, I think it is due to the engine harness breakdown.  There are a number of articles online about this, but little technical investigation.

1. There are a number of harness part numbers.  Be sure to check yours before buying one to replace, apparently they are quite vehicle specific.  Mine was 124 440 29 33.
2. The harness has a number of layers which have their own behaviour over time.  It is the inner wire insulations which seem to dramatically lose their elasticity over time-at-temperature exposure.  Thus, the hottest parts of the harness break down first.  The section inside the engine head which is enclosed under the aluminum cover has a rubber moulding over the wires going to the primary side of the 3 ignition coils.  The insulation inside this moulded rubber breaks down first, and likely provides all kinds of shorting and cross-signalling to the ignition coils.  Outward signs are minimal since the rubber moulding covers the break-down of insulation.  Anyway, once you find a breakdown in this area, the rest of hte harness is well on its way to interior insulation disintegration.  There are some narrower signal wires which are part of the harness. they go the the crank position sensor, knock sensors, etc.  These are shielded 2-conductor cables with urethane outer jacket.  The outer jacket remains in top shape while the individual wire insulations inside are seriously breaking down.
3. Dealer price for this harness in Toronto is $1780 new (jobber price is 15% less).  Ebay prices are $900 new and $300-450 used.  Quite a range.  Price of harness repair by DIY - $100 at most.  The problem with the repair is you need to buy high-temperature wire in various colours - That alone is a major deterrent for most DIY, I think, but the wire is easily purchased from Allied Electronics, or Newark, or perhaps Digikey, even Mcmaster Carr.  I recommend teflon or urethane insulated stranded copper.  I would take silver tinned, but not tinned is fine as it will be more flexible.
It seems most of the plugs used in the Mercedes are not too bad to rewire and solder.  The problem is some plugs have completely disintegrated and fallen off, leaving only silver contacts. 

In addition, the wires in the electronic throttle actuator are probably also breaking down if the part hasn't ben replaced in the past.  Note this component differs based on whether the vehicle has ASR or not.  Get the right part number.  Seldom mentioned is the break down of the plastic vacuum lines as well.  I found mind are cracking easily now.  These are 4mm outside diameter.  in some places, short lengths are emploed as couplings between rubber hoses.  Replace these with copper or brass lines available from RC hobby shops or K&S tubing.  Couple of dollars.  If anyone knows a good source for plastic vacuum lines, please leave a comment.

Will post more if and when I repair this damn snake of a harness.  Someone needs to find the components and provide an aftermarket kit or something to make this a whole lot cheaper.....no?